What a fun morning on the water!!! Who would have thought that a 2′-&-fair forecast could be so fun!
Another reminder not to put too much credence in the surf forecast/wave report. In fact, for the first 6 months that I started surfing (11/2021-5/2022), I didn’t even look at a surf report. I simply took my board to the beach anytime that I had time. If there weren’t waves, I could practice my paddling (I had a lot of catching up to do since I didn’t start surfing ’til I was 50!!!!) and I could also practice my ‘turn & burn’ — my phrasing for the transition from sitting on the board to laying down & catching the wave.
Earlier this week, on TUES 1/16, I took Cinderella out mainly because it was gonna be about 60ish degrees & the temps were going to be dropping so I wanted to get out on the water before the cold hit. I wasn’t expecting much, maybe catch a couple waves and feel refreshed from getting out on/in the 53/54 degree water. I ended up staying out for 2 hours because I was having so much fun. At one point maybe an hr, 1 & 1/2 hrs in, I started to walk out of the water but then the pull was too great & I had to turn around for ‘just 1 more’ . . . But that one was so fun and the next decent wave was right after. You can’t get out when waves are coming in that frequently!
On most of the waves, the water was about waist deep when I turned around (kicked out)/got off/flopped off depending on whether I had kept my balance &/or the waved closed out. When I would turn around, standing maybe thigh to waist deep and a set would come in before I got back on my board, I could chest bump the incoming waves at times — just playing and feeling so invigorated by the great rides I was catching – yaw, yaw, yawhoooo. Mostly lefts. Small faces but enough to come to the base and then turn the board back up the face to then flow back down in an undulating, gentle ‘rollercoaster’. In surfer slang that would be ‘clidro’, pretty sure. Not really up on the surf lingo, yet.
Also, with the drift and waves pulling in different directions in the impact zone – I often feel like a ballerina and will get on my toes and let the current dance me in whichever direction it is flowing. Once again, just for fun. What an awesome playground. When I’m having so much fun by myself, I sometimes wish there was someone/were some peeps by my side to share the joy with but it also reminds me how much fun I am and how much I like being with ‘just me’ a lot of the time! : )
Totally amazing. Fun, fun, fun ’til daddy takes the T-bird away . . . name that band.
Hope to see you on the water soon & catch some waves together.
Shaka vibes & love.
XO