8/7/2023

Spent 3hrs on the water late afternoon/evening enjoying some smooth faces and awesome waves.

Dancing w/ Cinderella was just what I needed after being cooped up at home for the last couple days. Tropical Storm Debby has caused a lot of havoc & woe here in Charleston – lots of flooding and roads closed/washed out. We’ve been under storm & flash flood advisories for 2 days now and all non essential travel has been strongly discouraged. Glad I am only 2.5 miles from the beach & going to the beach is definitely essential, especially when the surf is going off! After being on the water for 2hrs I was exhausted & got out, unsure of whether to rest & call it good or go back in for a few more . . .

I’m so glad I decide to go back in because I caught at least another 1/2 dozen waves, maybe more. My triceps were getting so tired that it felt like they might cramp up about every time I paddled back out but every time my body felt the wave catch the board, I would pop up to my feet & off we would go for a smooth sail down some pretty steep faces and then ride out in front of the white water once the wave crested and work the board up & down the wave. Dancing w/ Cinderella at ‘the ball’ – what a dance floor tropical storm Debby provided!

I’m not even sure how I was steering the board, it’s like it becomes an extension of my body and when my body starts bending & flexing & shifting my weight, the board follows the signals. It’s such an amazing feeling when your body’s knowing takes over and takes you for a ride. I’m not consciously telling my body to do anything, it just knows.

All those days on the water waiting, waiting, waiting – learning to read the swells and know which waves to paddle for . . . the conditions are rarely the same from day to day and sometimes it can feel like I have forgotten how to surf. Not today – today I was at the top of my ‘surf game’. I’m definitely not anywhere close to an expert or Olympic surfer, but I have improved so much in the past 3 years and today I felt more in tune with the waves & my board than I ever have. So sweet.

It was my best surf session of 2024, for sure.

Sending peace & love to all & some ‘flying high’ shaka vibes after a sweet surf sesh – yew, yew, yew-oooooooo! Definitely got that ‘surfer high’ tonight. Ahhhhh . . . the world is aligned, my body is my mind & I feel super fly.

xo