Category: Surfing
Estoy Enamorado de Chile
Such a beautiful country with beautiful people! Many thanks to Rise Retreats w/ Kate Moon Yoga and the Hotel Alaia for an amazing introduction to this country from 10/12-10/19 before I explored on my own for another wk+. Visiting in OCT meant that we experienced early spring with flowers blooming all around. Air temps were…
Yew-ooo!
8/7/2023 Spent 3hrs on the water late afternoon/evening enjoying some smooth faces and awesome waves. Dancing w/ Cinderella was just what I needed after being cooped up at home for the last couple days. Tropical Storm Debby has caused a lot of havoc & woe here in Charleston – lots of flooding and roads closed/washed…
Play, Play, Play!
What a fun morning on the water!!! Who would have thought that a 2′-&-fair forecast could be so fun! Another reminder not to put too much credence in the surf forecast/wave report. In fact, for the first 6 months that I started surfing (11/2021-5/2022), I didn’t even look at a surf report. I simply took…
Surf Journal – Sunrise Surf Sunday 1/Seven
SUN 1/7/2024: Sunrise was beautiful, surf was meh, being on the water & starting the day OtB (on the beach) — AMAZING. Waves were soft, mostly sand breaks that were closing out. Caught a few & got to ride a face R for a few seconds before it closed out which was fun. Seems like…
Surf Journal – Primero Sunset Surf of 2024
WED 1/3/2024: What a lovely sunset surf tonight on Folly. Super smooth with small waves (~1’ swell @ 9 second intervals) and no wind so the ~54 degree air temp and ~59 degree water temp were more refreshing than cold (with my 4/3 wetsuit). Absolutely perfect with Cinderella — my 10’ board. We had some…