Surf, Yoga & Writing Practice for the Soul

News

Surf Journal – Primero Sunset Surf of 2024

Posted by:

|

On:

WED 1/3/2024:

What a lovely sunset surf tonight on Folly. Super smooth with small waves (~1’ swell @ 9 second intervals) and no wind so the ~54 degree air temp and ~59 degree water temp were more refreshing than cold (with my 4/3 wetsuit). Absolutely perfect with Cinderella — my 10’ board. We had some lovely dances on the waves this eve.

: )

Just paddling on the smooth surface is a beautiful feeling and then catching a glassy, gentle face with just enough vert to grab the board & glide along is a bit mesmerizing – tranquil, peaceful.

My only companions were the dolphins that breached maybe 15-20’ away as I was walking my board in. They didn’t stick around or come close but its always a lovely sight simply to see a few dolphin fins breaching the surface in the distance and even better when most of their body breaks the surface or when there tail comes out. The best is when they come within a few feet and you can see their eye as they breach and you can wave Hi! as they check you out.

Magical indeed.

It had been a week since I had last taken my board out and I was pleasantly surprised by the smooth, gliding rides that I was able to catch with only a 1’ swell. 

Ahhhhh . . . it’s like a deep exhale for my body & soul.